Thursday, December 19, 2013

Happy Homemade Soap Station eng


   
   I always had a fond curiosity towards soaps that we use in everyday life. How is it made? What materials are used? Whenever I drop by the supermarket to buy soap, I hesitate in choosing one. Although some of the soaps have a light and fresh aroma to it, most of them are too strong, making me feel suffocated and dizzy. I used to bathe with those strong smelling soaps, thinking that it might be good—well, because of the overly nice smell—but it only resulted in the development of dry and itchiness skin. In the end, I had to apply layers and layers of chemical moisturizers to ease the itching and redness, which was quite annoying.

   The opportunity finally came on the 9th of September, 2013. I had participated in an amateur soap-making workshop, which had let all my interest and excitement flow out like a rushing water tap. I finally understood that handmade soap is made by the process of saponification between the fat, lye and water. This method prevents the destroying of natural vitamins and nutrients from the plant oils contained in the soap with the low heat chemical process, thus producing the best skin care products you can hope for.

Below is the principle of saponification :

Oil + Sodium Hydroxide  +  Water   =    Soap (base)  +  Glycerine

OR

Fatty acids of Vegetable Oils + Sodium Hydroxide + Water   =    Sodium Salt (soap) + Glycerine


The chemical reaction that occurs in the saponification process is shown as below :

saponification reaction

      
           In simple, saponification is a process that involves the base hydrolysis of a triglycerides  (NaOH), which consists of esters and fatty acids, to form the sodium salt of a carboxylate and glycerol. This process undergoes 4-6 weeks of dehydration before forming into a solid soap.
        Glycerine is a colourless, odourless and viscous organic compound. It acts as a humectant, which draws moisture to your skin, keeping it hydrated all the time. Regular use of soaps that form from glycerine can make your skin softer and suppler. In spite of this, most of the bigger and cheaper soaps that are sold in the market exclude this important ingredient, but are added with plenty of non-effective chemicals like foaming agents, hardening agents, chemical fragrance and preservatives to make it long-lasting. The glycerine then will be isolated for other uses such as cosmetics, medicine products, pharmaceutical etc.

          Homemade glycerine soap is natural and free of synthetic chemicals. It is very suitable for those who are allergic to chemicals and can even help in relieving symptoms of certain skin disorders like acne prone and eczema. Besides, homemade soap is added with essential oils extracted from plants and uses natural colours, which are not harmful towards your delicate skin, moreover, it will surely make your heart tingle whenever you see these soaps of various colours are produced with a wide variety of cute and interesting mould designs.
         Making a batch of soap takes 1-2 hours initially, and then an additional 4-6 weeks of curing before you should use it. The initial PH of soap with a strong alkaline of 12 will drop to the range of 8-10, which is safe to use. So, making cold processed handmade soap mostly involves a long waiting process.

          Sodium hydroxide is very toxic and is regarded as a highly hazardous material. Just like dealing with gas and electricity, if it is not treated with the utmost care, it can be incredibly harmful and dangerous. As long as it is used correctly and you follow the rules when using it, you will be fine.

Below are listed the safety precautions that need to be taken in the process of soap production :
       ·         Never use aluminium in the soap making process
      ·         Do not touch lye - wear gloves and protect your eyes - wear safety glasses  

      ·         Do not leave the lye solution unattended. Keep away from children and nosey pets
·         Ventilate the area well. Open a door and window or activate an exhaust fan to avoid 
       inhaling dangerous fumes.
·         If you get lye on your skin, rinse immediately. Vinegar counteracts lye because it is an acid.
       If you don't have vinegar, you can use orange juice.
      ·        If you spill lye solution on the counter-top, wash immediately with vinegar. It is best to cover
            counter-tops with plastic for safety and to avoid a big mess.


            Like choosing the ingredients in any recipe, choosing the oils in your soap recipes is a very important step in soap-making. Each type of oil imparts different qualities to the final soap. Creating your own soap recipe is the art of balancing them to create the perfect bar of soap. Here is a list of the most common soap-making oils and the qualities that they will give to your soap.

Please refer to Saponification Table plus the Characteristics of Oil in Soap tab.
Oil or fat (acid)
SAP
Hard/Soft
cleansing
fluffy lather
stable lather
skin care
酪梨油
133.7
soft
fair
yes
no
amazing!
椰子油
191.1
hard
great
yes
no
Fair
蓖麻油
128.6
soft
fair
yes
yes
Great
橄榄油
135.3
soft
good
no
no
Great
棕榈油
142
hard
great
no
yes
Fair
花生油
137
soft
fair
no
yes
Great
大豆油
135.9
soft
good
no
yes
Fair
甜杏仁油
137.3
soft
good
no
yes
amazing!
荷荷芭油
69.5
soft
fair
no
yes
Great
冷压麻油
Sesame oil
0.133
soft
fair
no
yes
Great
芥花籽油
Canola oil
0.1324
soft
good
no
yes
fair
米糠油
Rice bran oil
0.128
soft
fair
no
yes
Great






Happy Handmade Soap Series


~ Aloe Vera Soap


 Ingredients :


Aloe Vera, Canola Oil,  Palm Oil, Coconut Oil, Sesame Oil, Lemon Grass Essential Oil or Bergamot Essential Oil or Lemon Essential Oil, with or without Oatmeal as scrub.
 Benefits :
Aloe Vera is the most prestigious herb used for skin care. It nourishes and moisturizes your skin, at the same time leaving a layer of protection on skin surface. Aloe Vera is anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, and excellent for the relief of itching, acne, pimples and soothing for sunburned skin. Its richly emollient, moisturising properties can help to make your skin look and feel suppler and younger.  This soap leaves your skin feeling so soft that you’ll want to use it every day.
  










~ Goats’ Milk Soap
Ingredients :
Goat Milk, Bran Rice Oil, Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Sesame Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Lemon Grass Essential Oil, Bergamot Essential Oil or Lemon Essential Oil.
Benefits : 
Goats milk contains alpha-hydroxyl acids such as lactic acid which help remove dead skin cells from your skin’s surface. This leaves new cells on the surface of your skin, making it smoother and younger-looking. It is particularly high in Vitamin A, which is necessary in repairing damaged skin tissue, reducing lines and wrinkles, controlling acne, and providing some psoriasis relief.








~ Rice Water Soap
Ingredients :
Rice Water, Bran Rice Oil, Coconut Oil, Palm Oil, Sesame Oil, Sweet Almond Oil and Lemon Essential Oil.
Benefits :
Rice water contains 'pitera' along with vitamin and minerals. Pitera is beneficial for skin's natural grow and gives you clear skin. Persistent use helps your skin soft, improving the complexion and may remove sebum.














































Information is derived from various internet website articles.
Translated by S.F.Ung.

快乐手工皀站




对每天洗澡都必须用到沐浴皂,我都有很大的好奇心。道底这些肥皂是如何形成的?它们里头到底存了些什么东西?每当到超市赚皀都要轉了好几圈都不知该選那一种,反而被那浓郁的香精味弄得头晕。常常用了香皀洗完澡,身体是凉爽干浄但皮膚粗造干裂和发癢 。最後还是必须涂了一层又一层的化学滋润霜之类的物品.....

身为化学工程畢业生的我总是希望自己能弄一套適合自已及一家人的护肤保养品。回到最天然原始,溫和,無毒,安心的洗潔方式來代替化学添加物。一方面又可環保不但心化学清潔劑殘留及污染环境。

时几終於來了, 9 Sept 2013 那天報名参加了基础的手工皀课程。这一课让我把腦子里久違了的疑惑和兴趣全搬出来不可休止。我终于明白了手工皀的好处是在低溫冷制法下當油脂混合了鹼液和水進行了皀化而形成的。这样的原理不会破壞植物油脂的天然维生素和营养成份,对皮肤最好的保养品。以下为皂化的原理:


                                         +     氢氧化钠    +         =      ()              +     甘油          
 
                                        或

            植物脂肪酸   +    氢氧化钠     +       =    脂肪酸纳  ()    +    甘油


它的化学方程式为:


saponification reaction



皂化原理为:油脂通過加热在碱的作用下产生水解(hydrolysis),中和反应,生成甘油和皂基,再經過干燥(4-6 星期),成型就成了手工皂。

甘油是天然的保濕劑,協助溶解毛孔中的圩垢,使被肌肤被破壞的保護膜恢復机能,使肌肤变得更加健康。而巿埸上又便宜又大的香皀把最须要的甘油抽离,添加对皮肤没帮助的化学品,添加起泡剂,硬化剂,防腐剂使它耐用,不易软烂。當您用了手工皂之后,肌肤会感覺到佷幼滑,滋润不会再崩緊和乾燥了。这些抽离的甘油再为副产品买给化妆品,制药或其他用途。 


手工製作皀也可添加上自然的添加物如植物精油和天然色彩來增加生活的乐趣。各种造型可愛的製造模也把单純的香皀便得更吸引人也变成了一种奢侈品。手工制皀过程一般只須几小时但必须等最安全45(六个星期)皀化成熟後才可安心的使用。也就是让鹼從朂初的PH12 强鹼减底致弱鹼性PH8-10方可使用不致於伤皮肤。所以製作手工皀也是一个漫长的期待。


氢氧化钠划或鹼是非常危险的化学药品,处理時要非常的小心。就像在厨房处理煤氣和电源一样,都必须谨慎的遵照着它的安全措施。以下是处鹼理前,必须懂的事件:


* 必须远离皮肤,眼睛,嘴巴和衣服。

* 不要在有小孩或动物面前处理鹼液。

* 将鹼液保存在乾燥,封密的非金屬容器𥚃

* 将它放在小孩或动物不能轻易取得的地方。

* 必须遠离铝製品和糖类。

* 记得要在通风非常良好的地方混合鹼与水。

* 处理鹼液时一定要穿戴防護衣物。


手工皂的特性与它对肌肤的功效是可從油脂的選擇來配合各人所求。所選擇的油脂都必须是 100% 纯油脂和確認它还没过期。过期的油脂会发岀令人厌恶的臭味。以下是各种油脂的特性和皂化功能表。
 
Please refer to Saponification Table plus the Characteristics of Oil in Soap table


oil or fat (acid)
SAP
Hard/Soft
cleansing
fluffy lather
stable lather
skin care
酪梨油
133.7
soft
fair
yes
no
amazing!
椰子油
191.1
hard
great
yes
no
Fair
蓖麻油
128.6
soft
fair
yes
yes
Great
橄榄油
135.3
soft
good
no
no
Great
棕榈油
142
hard
great
no
yes
Fair
花生油
137
soft
fair
no
yes
Great
大豆油
135.9
soft
good
no
yes
Fair
甜杏仁油
137.3
soft
good
no
yes
amazing!
荷荷芭油
69.5
soft
fair
no
yes
Great
冷压麻油
Sesame oil
0.133
soft
fair
no
yes
Great
芥花籽油
Canola oil
0.1324
soft
good
no
yes
fair
米糠油
Rice bran oil
0.128
soft
fair
no
yes
Great


 



快乐手工皂系列*

~芦荟皂

成份:芥花油,椰子油,棕榈油,芝麻油,香茅精油或佛手木甘精油,添加物为燕麦粉。
功效:芦荟含天然保濕因子,抗紫外线因子,按胺酸酶仰制剂,消炎抑菌制,維生素等多种
营养成份。能改善敏感肌肤,具保湿,防晒,抗皱,去斑,促进䏢肤代谢和延缓衰老。





 
~羊奶皂

成份:米糠油,椰子油,棕榈油,芝麻油,甜杏仁油,香茅精油或佛手木甘精油。
功效:羊奶含皮细胞生长因子(EGF)可快速休补老化,坏死,磨損的上皮細胞,並促进皮肤弹性形成, 使皮肤美白。羊乳中的超氧化物歧化酸(SOD)还能延缓皮肤衰老。羊奶里含有天然的润肤剂,它们都是用来滋润肌肤的。羊奶中维生素E含量较高,可以阻止体内细胞中不饱和脂肪酸氧化、分解,延缓皮肤衰老,增加皮肤弹性和光泽。









~ 淘米水皂

成份:米糠油,椰子油,棕榈油,芝麻油,甜杏仁油,香茅香精油,柠檬精油或佛手木甘精 
      油。
功效:米水中含有水溶性维生素及矿物质,可以分解脸上油垢,淡化色素和防止出现脂肪
      粒。长期坚持用会使皮肤光滑,美白和有弹性。